"Appendix: Letter from the Lordbishop of Nova Scotia," S.P.G.
Annual Report 1827 (London: S.P.G. and C.&J. Rivington, 1828),
62-104.
Halifax, 4 Jan. 1828.
REVEREND SIR,
On Thursday, the 24th of May, 1827, I embarked with my
chaplain, the Rev. Edward Wix, in His Majesty's ship Orestes, Capt.
Jones; and being greatly favoured by winds and weather, we
anchored, after a remarkably short and pleasant passage, at St.
John's, Newfoundland, on the evening of Monday the 28th.
Tuesday, the 29th, I landed with every possible mark of
respect from the navy, army, and civil authorities, having been
previously visited on board by Archdeacon Coster, Mr. Carrington,
and the principal persons of St. John's. The Governor's carriage
was waiting on the shore for me, to conduct me to Government-House,
where I found a most kind and comfortable home. The Roman Catholic
Bishop, Dr. Scallan, was among my earliest visitors. Sir Thomas
Cochrane drove me to Virginia Cottage to dinner, about three miles
from the town. It is beautifully situated; and his Excellency has
fitted up the house, and arranged its grounds /63/ and water and
wood, with every thing about it, in admirable taste.
The entrance to the harbour of St. John's is highly
picturesque. It is a strait, so narrow that large vessels must be
warped in, if the wind is not favourable, between fortified heights
that rise almost perpendicularly, and nearly 600 feet above the
water. Close to this entrance an ice-berg was grounded in 66
fathoms water, and with nearly 200 feet of its mass above the
surface. This, however, was quite diminutive in comparison with
hundreds which we afterwards saw. The town is well
situated, and in the centre of very beautiful scenery; but its
inhabitants, amounting to nearly 10,000, are sadly crowded together
within a very narrow space. Of these, more than one-half are Roman
Catholics, who have a spacious church, and afford a very liberal
support to their Bishop. There is likewise, at St. John's, a
Congregational Meeting-House, and a Methodist Chapel, whose
congregation is numerous.
Wednesday 30th. His Excellency was so good as to devote the
greater part of this day to the assisting of my information upon
all points that bear in any manner upon the religious interests of
the island. The Archdeacon and Clergy occupied me during the
remainder of it. The whole island now contains more than 70,000
inhabitants, of whom one-half are Roman Catholics, and the larger
part of the remainder are members of the Established Church. A
large portion of its present occupants are of English descent; and
it is only owing to the want of timely means for their instruction
in the faith of their forefathers, that a number of these have
united themselves with the Church of Rome.
Thursday 31st. A sufficient time having elapsed since my
arrival to give notice to the parishioners, there was service at
the church this day, preparatory to confirmation, and an
appropriate and excellent sermon was delivered by Mr. Wix, to an
attentive audience, among whom was the Governor. The church is a
spacious and respectable wooden building, commodious and in good
repair. It is, however, without tower or steeple. It is well
attended by a large /64/ proportion of the most respectable
inhabitants of the town, and by many of all classes. This day I
made full inquiry respecting a District Committee of the Society
for Promoting Christian Knowledge, which once existed here, but was
now nearly forgotten by all its former members.
Friday, June 1st. After a levee at Government-House, which
was respectably attended, I took the oaths and my seat as a member
of His Majesty's Council. His Excellency accompanied me to the
central school of the Newfoundland School Society, which affords a
very fair specimen of the Madras system; but the pupils are less
numerous than I had expected. The average number of boys, for the
last six months, not having exceeded thirty, and that of the girls
being still less. Those who attend appear to be well-instructed by
a respectable master and mistress. But the school is not popular,
partly because there has long been an excellent free school in the
town, which is now under the care of a superior master, Mr. Bacon,
and partly on account of some offence which has been given to the
Roman Catholics, who have a very large school under their own
management.
Saturday, 2nd. The weather was bad, and I was employed in
preparing for my visits to all parts of the island.
Sunday, 3d. A very large congregation was assembled at St.
John's Church, which was consecrated. Every thing had been well
arranged by the Clergy. In the afternoon 316 persons were
confirmed. I preached upon both occasions. The deportment of
those who were confirmed, many of whom were advanced in years, was
deeply serious and affecting; and the labours of the day were full
of comfort, and prompted much thankfulness to God.
Monday, 4th. A large congregation was assembled at the
church, although the weather was very discouraging. I preached in
behalf of the Committee of the Society for Promoting Christian
Knowledge, and 36 l. 10 s. were collected for its funds. After
this, a large and respectable number of ladies and gentlemen
assembled at the Court-House, the business of the term having been
kindly suspended by the /65/ Court for this day; the committee was
re-organized; officers were appointed; nearly forty persons
requested to become members of the Parent Society; and 50 l. were
contributed to the objects of the committee. Many persons were
also enrolled as local members. After this, the Archdeacon and
Messrs. Carrington, Laugharne, Pering, and Blackman, met me at the
parsonage, where they took the oaths, made their subscriptions, and
received their institution and licence.
Tuesday, 5th. The weather continued wet and stormy, but we
had service again this day; and the Archdeacon preached a very
impressive sermon upon the duties consequent to confirmation. I
availed myself of an opportunity afforded me this day, for
obtaining much information relative to the interior of
Newfoundland, from Mr. Cormack, a merchant of St. John's, the only
person who has ever penetrated through the centre of the island.
He represents it as chiefly consisting of rocky barren land, with
many lakes and extensive swamps, but without forests or any land
fit for cultivation, except in the neighbourhood of rivers. The
journey occupied two months; during which time, Mr. Cormack and his
only companion, a Mic-Mac Indian, suffered much from fatigue and
privations, and were nearly exhausted at the close of their
journey. They saw many herds of deer (cariboo, or rein-deer) and
innumerable wild fowl.
Wednesday 6th. I accompanied his Excellency and sundry other
gentlemen, on horseback, to Portugal Cove, a beautiful fishing
village, on Conception Bay, ten miles from St. John's. Mr. Wix was
with us. The scenery is very fine, and was occasionally enriched
by immense icebergs in the distance.
The Society formerly had a school at Portugal Cove, taught by
Mr. Curtis, who remains here in the service of the Methodists. He
teaches about thirty children on weekdays. He reads the Liturgy on
Sunday, and delivers an extempore exhortation, when neither Mr.
Laugharne nor the Methodist teacher from St. John's is here. There
is a neat little building at this place, erected for public worship
/66/ at the joint expense of Churchmen and Methodists; a most
injudicious plan, which has been too frequently pursued in
Newfoundland. Mr. Laugharne generally visits this place every
third or fourth Sunday. At my suggestion he will hereafter
occasionally spend a few days here, that he may cultivate a
pastoral intercourse with the people: the value of which is always
obvious. There is a considerable number of Roman Catholics here;
but they have no chapel, and are but seldom visited by one of the
priests from St. John's, who officiates in a private house.
Thursday, June 7th. Having made arrangements which secured to
me the attendance of Archdeacon Coster through the whole of the
northern parts of the island, and each of the clergy through the
whole extent of his individual charge, I considered it a duty to
release Mr. Wix, who returned immediately to the urgent calls for
his services in Nova Scotia, although his assistance was so
valuable that I could not lose it without regret. I embarked this
day on board the Orestes, but was prevented by adverse wind from
getting out of the harbour.
Friday, 8th. A threatening day, but we were able to sail, and
had a rapid run to Cape Francis, one of the headlands at the mouth
of Conception Bay, distant nineteen miles from St. John's. From
the Cape we had to work against a strong head-wind, eighteen miles
to Harbour Grace, where we anchored in the afternoon. Mr. Burt,
the Missionary, who had visited me at St. John's, came on board
with Dr. Stirling, one of his churchwardens. The scenery along the
shore was bold and romantic; and we passed several splendid
icebergs, presenting every possible variety of shape and
appearance.
Saturday, 9th. A fine morning enabled us to land early. We
were met on the shore by all the principal inhabitants, and a
multitude of others. After visiting the parsonage, an old
building, but in a comfortable state, we proceeded to the church,
a large building, but slightly and unskilfully built. About eleven
years ago it was determined by the congregation to make an addition
to their old church, which /67/ was effected at an expense of 700
pounds, when the whole was burnt down, and, as was suspected, by an
incendiary. A new church was then determined upon, and more than
2000 pounds were collected for the purpose. The frame was so
slight, that it was blown down in a storm soon after it was raised.
The present church was then erected, and brought to its present
condition, at an expense (including the charges of a law-suit with
the contractor, for the insufficiency of his work,) of more than
3000 pounds; leaving a debt of 1000 pounds, which hangs like a
mill-stone around the congregation, and is the source of continual
difficulty and dispute. -- We proceeded to the school of Mr. Bray,
who receives a salary from the Society. He is a respectable, but
not a popular, person. His children, however, appear to be well
taught -- several of them are from respectable families in St.
John's, and board with Mr. Bray.
A large number of people met me by appointment in the
afternoon. We formed a numerous committee of the Society for
Promoting Christian Knowledge, after prayers for a blessing upon
our work, and then proceed to consider some of the difficulties by
which the church is embarrassed, and the efforts of its best
friends have been paralysed. It was agreed, however, that a
subscription should be made to accomplish some repairs immediately
required. More than 50 pounds were contributed, and the work has
been happily accomplished. It was evident, however, that the
hopeless condition of the church accounts was a source of great
dissatisfaction and discouragement. -- A tomb-stone in the church-yard of this place covers the remains of a mother and her daughter,
who died in 1801, -- one at the age of 118, the other 88. The
daughter came some distance to visit the mother on her death-bed,
and both died within the same hour. We returned, after a busy day,
to a late dinner in the Orestes.
Sunday, June 10th. We went in a boat six miles to Carboneer
-- a large congregation, chiefly of men, was assembled. The
disproportion of males to females is owing to the /68/ fishery from
this place being chiefly managed by agents and servants who are
yearly imported, and chiefly from Ireland, though some are also
from England. St. James's church and burial-ground were
consecrated, and seventy persons were confirmed, after an
appropriate sermon from the Archdeacon, very instructive and
excellent. At this place, which is populous, there is a large
Roman Catholic and a large Methodist congregation. There is a good
school, supported by the Newfoundland Society, and a smaller one
assisted by the Society for the Propagation of the Gospel. We
returned by water, and, as the sea was rough, we could not by any
exertion reach the church at Harbour Grace until after four
o'clock. The weather was stormy, and some persons who had a long
distance to go by water, had returned home; but we found about 1200
persons waiting for us. -- St. Paul's church and burial-ground were
consecrated. I preached, and confirmed 332 persons, many of whom
appeared much impressed with the solemnity of their engagements.
After service, an address was presented, as in various other
places, and I improved the opportunity for urging upon all the duty
of union and brotherly love, and pressed the necessity for new
exertions in behalf of their embarrassed church. The schoolmaster
of the Newfoundland Society called upon me, and gave me a return of
his school, which is well managed. The Roman Catholics here are
numerous, and have a splendid chapel. The priest is a vicar-general. The Methodists also have a large congregation in this
place. We did not return to our dinner in the ship until nearly
nine o'clock; and I suffered from the vicissitudes of weather --
having been much chilled in the boat in the morning; exceedingly
heated in the crowded church at Carboneer -- chilled a second time,
and wet with rain, when going to Harbour Grace; again heated almost
to suffocation, in the church there; and shivering a third time on
my return to the ship.
The whole of Conception Bay is populous, but especially
Harbour Grace, Carboneer, and Brigus -- from each of which an
extensive Labrador and seal fishery is carried on. One /69/
mercantile house at Carboneer employed more than thirty sail of
square-rigged vessels in foreign trade, in the last year, besides
thirty-five schooners in the fisheries.
Monday, June 11th. A stormy day with fog and rain, prevented
the sailing of the ship, and enabled me to attend to a multitude of
papers relating to a grant from government of 100 pounds to a
church at Brigus, which is now altogether in the hands of the
Methodists; the consequence of agreeing to any partnership in
building places for public worship, which has also been assisted by
the prevalent want in this island, of definite titles to the
grounds that are occupied; a want which will probably be supplied
in future, in all cases in which the Church is concerned.
Tuesday, 12th. We sailed at daylight having the Rev. Mr. Burt
with us, and also Captain Buchan of the navy, intimately acquainted
with all the coasts and harbours of the island, and Mr. Dunscomb,
both of whom had kindly attended us from St. John's, to render us
any services in their power. We landed at Upper Island Cove, at
the mouth of Spaniard's Bay, to inspect a neat little church in
good forwardness. It is a wonderful achievement for the poor
fishermen in this little settlement; I commended and encouraged
their exertions, and they assured me the church should be finished.
I have no doubt their promise is already performed. The people
here all began to move to Bread and Cheese Cove about a mile and a
half distant, where a large congregation was assembled at eleven
o'clock. St. John's Church, another neat little building, erected
by extraordinary exertions of the people, and its burial-ground
which had been neatly enclosed in expectation of my arrival, were
consecrated, and seventy-nine persons with great apparent
seriousness and devotion were confirmed, after an appropriate
sermon from the Archdeacon; and I endeavoured to encourage their
perseverance in every good work. Our ship had proceeded to good
anchorage in Bay Roberts, and we followed in a boat to the church
at that place; after giving instructions to Mr. Richard Wills, the
Society's schoolmaster at Bread and Cheese Cove, a /70/ respectable
person, who reads every Sunday at that place and Island Cove, and
is well attended.
The church at Bay Roberts is a neat but unfinished building.
Here I preached, confirmed fifty-six persons, and consecrated the
burial-ground. There is a large Methodist meeting-house at this
place, served by a preacher from Port de Grave, and also a
Methodist Sunday-school. Mr. Williams the Society's schoolmaster
is aged, but able to read on Sunday, and is tolerably well
attended. From hence we crossed the Bay in a boat to Baremeed,
where I consecrated St. Mark's Church, a very small building, and
its burial-ground. The Society's schoolmaster here having lately
engaged in trade, must be replaced whenever a fit person can be
found. We gave notice of an intended confirmation on the following
day at Ship Cove, in this neighbourhood; and returned to our ship
to dine after eight o'clock, having this day visited four churches
in different settlements.
Wednesday, June 13th. The ship was at sail at an early hour,
and having rounded the point of Bay Roberts we landed at Ship Cove
before ten o'clock. St. Luke's Church, a well finished new
building, and its burial-ground were consecrated, and seventy-five
persons were confirmed after a sermon for the occasion. More than
fifty who were anxious to be confirmed were kept away by dread of
the measles, as all contagious disorders in the fishing season are
ruinous to these poor people. I strongly urged upon the principal
persons here the duty and necessity of every possible exertion to
increase the comfort and usefulness of Mr. Blackman, the Missionary
who was soon to be with them. One hundred children attended a
Sunday-school in this place which is gratuitously taught, and
chiefly by the members of one respectable family, Mr. Furneaux. A
good daily school is greatly wanted in this place, and will be well
deserving of the Society's assistance, as with good arrangement it
may be made to supply instruction to most of the children at
Baremeed, Port de Grave, and Ship Cove.
In sailing from this place we visited a great natural
curiosity near Cupids, a settlement chiefly in the occupation /71/
of Methodists, who have a large Sunday-school there. We passed in
our boat under a magnificent arch formed in the rock, into a narrow
cut or fissure several hundred yards in length, through which there
was barely room for the boat. The water, which was beautifully
transparent, was many fathoms deep, but we could plainly see every
thing at the bottom, which abounded with fish, and shells, and
curious marine plants. On either side the rock rose
perpendicularly nearly 200 feet, and its fragments seemed so
slightly fastened, that we apprehended the motion of the oars or
our voices would bring some of them down upon us. From hence we
sailed to Brigus, a beautiful and flourishing fishing village or
fishing town, whose harbour was full of vessels that were gaily
dressed with their flags. Owing to the want of a clergyman, who
might have been advantageously stationed here some years ago, this
place is chiefly in the hands of the Methodists, very much through
the extensive influence of Mr. Cozens the principal merchant, and
a respectable, exemplary man. The church as it was once called,
and, as such, was assisted with 100 pounds from Government, is in
their sole occupation. Mr. Meaden, the Society's schoolmaster at
Brigus, a very respectable and fit person, has about thirty daily
scholars. The Methodists supersede his employment at this place on
Sunday, and he therefore reads at Salmon Cove four miles distant,
where he has also about thirty Sunday scholars. I visited the
patriarch of the place, Mr. Munden, a native of Bridport in
England, but a resident here during the last seventy-five years.
He is now beyond the age of ninety. I had much pleasure in
ministering to his spiritual comfort. Here we parted from Mr.
Burt. We embarked in the evening, and had a delightful sail to
Lance Cove in Bell Isle, where the ship, which had no anchorage
during the day, anchored for the night.
Thursday, June 14th. The weather continued delightfully fine
and this day was very hot, although many icebergs were in view,
some of which in consequence of the heat foundered, as it is here
said, and were broken into numberless fragments with noise like the
sound of distant cannon. /72/ We landed at Lance Cove, where there
are about ten Protestant families, and left the Archdeacon to
baptize several children and follow us in the ship. As Bell Isle
is considered a very fertile part of Newfoundland I preferred a
walk of three miles, through a very bad path that crossed several
swamps and some difficult precipices. The magnificence of the
cliff scenery, which is on a very grand scale, amply compensated
for our toil. At noon we embarked and sailed to Portugal Cove,
where we landed Captain Buchan and Mr. Dunscomb for their return to
St. John's; and had a very rapid run to Trinity Bay, sixty miles,
thirty-five of which only occupied three hours. We anchored in the
harbour of Trinity at nine o'clock, and the Rev. Mr. Bullock
immediately came on board, and made a very favourable report of his
success in preparing for confirmation. We were very thankful to
have escaped the thick fog and numerous icebergs that were outside
of the harbour.
Friday, June 15th. Captain Jones had me in a boat at a very
early hour, that we might row through the different branches of
this fine harbour, and see its beautiful scenery, before any
business could engage us. Mr. Bullock came immediately after
breakfast to attend me either to Bonaventura, ten miles distant, or
English harbour, three miles in an opposite direction. The best
boat was manned for the purpose, but a thick fog and high wind
prevented the attempt. I visited the church at Trinity, which is
a remarkably neat, well finished, and commodious building, but
greatly wants a steeple, which is in forwardness while I am writing
this report. Our next visit was to the Newfoundland Society's
school, which is well taught by Mr. Fleet, and contains eighty-eight children; it is the only school in the place and very useful,
it is open on Sundays and well attended. Of the children, fourteen
are Methodists, seven Roman Catholics, and sixty-seven belong to
the Church, which they regularly attend with their schoolmaster.
There is a Methodist meeting-house and a resident preacher here,
but his congregation is not numerous, nor are the Roman Catholics.
Saturday, 16th. A fine morning induced us to renew the /73/
attempt in which we had failed yesterday. We breakfasted early,
were in our boat, before six o'clock, and at Bonaventura before
nine. Some time was required to assemble the women from the
neighbouring settlements of Old Bonaventura and Careless Harbour;
the men were chiefly out in their fishing boats, but those whom we
passed left their fishing and followed us to the shore. They
appeared to be a simple and affectionate people warmly attached to
the Church. I had therefore the greater pleasure in consecrating
their humble little church, St. John's, and its burial-ground.
They readily promised an enlargement and improvement of both, and
an attention to the improvement of their path ways, that their
women and children may attend the public worship with dry feet,
which is now impossible even at Midsummer. So little regard has
been paid to the internal improvement of the island, that in every
part of it these paths were lately in the same wretched state in
which they were more than a century ago, and the people seemed
totally ignorant of the facility with which they could improve
them. In this respect the clergy are doing much for them, that
their attendance at church may be made easy. The Archdeacon has by
his personal influence and regular superintendence, induced his
congregation to make three miles of excellent road at Bonavista.
Mr. Chapman has done the same at Toulinquet or Twillingate, and now
the facility is discovered, the work will be extended every year.
I obtained a promise from the different settlements in Trinity Bay,
that under Mr. Bullock's direction a good bridle road shall be made
to connect all the places that can be visited by a clergyman. Mr.
Thompson, the Society's schoolmaster at Bonaventura, in addition to
a daily school, attends the children on Sunday, and reads twice to
an attentive little congregation, but he is infirm. On our return
we were greatly delayed by a north-east gale; although our boat had
twelve oars, we advanced only half a mile in an hour, and were
sadly knocked about, till being thoroughly chilled, Mr. Bullock
landed with me as soon as it was possible to make the shore, and we
walked several miles through a /74/ different country to Trinity,
where we arrived after dark having an arm of the sea to cross, and
I had to get into a boat after this to reach the ship.
Sunday, June 17th. A very fine day, for which we were all
thankful, as many of our congregation had to come from distant
places by water. St. Paul's Church and burial-ground at Trinity
were consecrated in the morning, when I preached to a crowded and
attentive audience. In the afternoon the congregation was still
greater, 367 persons were confirmed. The Archdeacon addressed them
in a very solemn manner. Every individual had been separately
instructed and examined, as was the case generally throughout the
island. One poor woman came eighteen miles in a small boat to be
confirmed, without any other assistance than her son, eight years
old, could afford, and was exposed to part of the gale which had
been so inconvenient to myself on the preceding day. It was very
gratifying to me to learn that the memory and long and valuable
services of the Society's late Missionary in this place, the Rev.
Mr. Clinch, who was a person of primitive zeal and manner, were
most gratefully cherished; the effect of his faithful labours is
manifest, and doubtless they have been greatly blessed.
Monday, June 18th. The Archdeacon and Mr. Bullock came on
board the Orestes before four in the morning, and the ship was
immediately under sail; but the wind was so light and variable that
the whole day was consumed in going to New Perlican or Pelican,
thirty miles, where we anchored at night, and landed Mr. Bullock to
give notice of our arrival, and prepare for service. This day we
passed an enormous iceberg more than 500 feet above the surface of
the water.
Tuesday, 19th. Mr. Bullock had a preparatory service at seven
in the morning. I landed at nine, found a numerous congregation,
of whom fifty-four were confirmed and addressed. I urged the
people to complete their church, all the materials for which were
collected, and obtained their warm assurances of attention in every
respect to the comfort of any Missionary who should be sent to
their side of Trinity /75/ Bay. I encouraged them to expect one,
who, I am thankful to say, is now there, Mr. Otto S. Weeks, in
Deacon's orders. At eleven we proceeded in a boat four miles to
Sillee's Cove, generally called Silly Cove; but the impossibility
of giving notice on the preceding evening prevented the assembling
of the people, all the men having gone at daylight to fish in their
boats. The old church having fallen into decay from age, a new one
has been erected, and will soon be finished. We visited the
Society's aged and venerable schoolmaster, Mr. John Thomas, now
eighty-seven years old. He has laboured faithfully in this place
since the year 1777, just half a century; and the effect of his
instruction is visible in this and all the adjoining settlements.
He is now dependent for support upon the small allowance he
receives from the Society; and as he can no longer labour in his
office, he was apprehensive this would be taken from him, but I
encouraged him to hope otherwise. We ministered to his temporal
and spiritual comfort, and left him cheered by our visit, for which
he was very grateful. Sillee's Cove is a very neat little
settlement; its inhabitants, with few exceptions, are members of
the Church, and were greatly delighted with the prospect of having
a clergyman on this side of Trinity Bay.
The ship came to us from New Perlican, and anchored in the
evening at Heart's Content, a beautiful harbour containing fifty
families, chiefly belonging to the Church. The Archdeacon and Mr.
Bullock immediately landed, and were busily occupied in preparing
all who were desirous to be admitted to the solemn rite of
confirmation. The weather continued fine, but the fishing season
had commenced in consequence of the arrival of swarms of Capelin,
the favourite bait. We were well aware that this must prove a
serious obstruction to our objects.
Wednesday, June 20th. Mr. Bullock had stopped all the boats
belonging to Heart's Content, and at nine o'clock I found a large
congregation assembled. St. Mary's church, a neat building, and
burial-ground were consecrated, and sixty-four persons were
confirmed, after a sermon on the subject. /76/ Here, as in other
places, promises were cheerfully, and, as I believe, sincerely made
to do every thing for the comfort of a Missionary and schoolmaster,
to procure a legal conveyance of the church property, and to
improve the roads. At noon we embarked, but as there was no wind
we took an early dinner, and went in a boat seven miles to Heart's
Delight, where there is a slight church, but in want of repair. It
might have been consecrated if the people had been at home, but
there was only one man in the settlement, and he was confined with
measles; the rest were in their fishing boats. I commissioned this
individual to offer them my sincere good wishes and my earnest
desire that they would bear their part in providing for the comfort
of a Missionary, and the complete repair of the church. He assured
me that this desire would be duly regarded. The soil in this
neighbourhood is very good, and a valuable glebe may be provided.
The land is also well covered with wood. No exertions could bring
the ship to New Harbour as we anxiously wished, and we anchored for
the night in Shoal Bay, an exposed roadstead.
Tuesday, June 21st. The ship was under sail at daylight, and
worked against a strong breeze to New Harbour, before seven
o'clock, but, unfortunately, the men were nearly all away at the
fishery, which had commenced with an extraordinary promise of
success. The Archdeacon and Mr. Bullock collected the few that
were left, and as many women as could immediately attend. St.
George's Church and burial-ground were consecrated, and twenty-four
persons, who seemed deeply impressed with the solemnity of the
ordinance, were confirmed. The baptism of several children
detained us some time, but we embarked before two o'clock, and in
five hours we were at Trinity, a distance of fifty miles.
Sir Thomas Cochrane, who was to sail from St. John's in his
yacht, soon after we had left that place, to visit the southern
shore, had requested us to meet him on an isthmus between the bays
of Placentia and Trinity. This isthmus is only two miles wide,
while the ships, by the water communication, were 500 miles
asunder. It was his Excellency's /77/ kind intention to have taken
us in his yacht to all the settlements in Placentia Bay; and he
crossed the isthmus twice on foot in search of us; but we found it
would entirely prevent my spending a Sunday with each of the
clergy, and I was therefore obliged reluctantly to relinquish so
pleasant an arrangement.
Friday, June 22d. After a rainy night, the ship was under
sail at four in the morning, and ran to Bonavista Head, forty
miles, in a few hours, sailing past many icebergs. The fishing-boats on the coast were innumerable. We anchored at Bonavista at
one o'clock; but the harbour is difficult, and not secure. We
landed in the afternoon, and were received on the shore by all the
principal inhabitants, who conducted us to the church and
parsonage, both of which are respectable and convenient buildings.
We had an uncomfortable row to the ship at night, through heavy
squalls of wind and rain.
Saturday, 23d. A fine day after a stormy night. We landed
soon after breakfast, and received many visitors. We afterwards
called at the Newfoundland Society's school, but, being Saturday,
no children were assembled. The master gave us full information,
and a written report of his school. We afterwards walked nearly
three miles, upon a road lately made through the Archdeacon's
exertions, to Lance Cove, which being the nearest landing-place to
Bonavista Head, the first land discovered in this western world by
Cabot, is probably the first spot that was trodden by an European
foot. Here we embarked in a boat which had been sent for the
purpose, and rowed into, and along, and through some magnificent
caves; but in consequence of a heavy swell the boat struck upon a
sunken rock in one of them, under some terrific heights. We dined
at the Archdeacon's.
Sunday, June 24th. A very fine day, for which all of us were
thankful. We landed at ten o'clock, and met a large congregation.
Christ's Church and burial-ground were consecrated, and I preached
to attentive hearers. In the afternoon the church was crowded to
excess. Two hundred and ten /78/ persons were confirmed, and I
addressed them seriously. We returned to the ship in the evening
to dinner.
Monday, June 25th. The weather was fair, but the wind
unfavourable. The ship, however, worked out of the harbour at an
early hour, and was at King's Cove, ten miles, before nine o'clock.
Most of the inhabitants here are Roman Catholic, but a few families
belong to the Church, and by their spirited efforts, and some
little assistance from the Society, a neat church, St. James's, has
been erected, which was consecrated, with its burial-ground.
Twenty-seven persons were confirmed, whom I afterwards addressed.
The priest who resides here, Mr. Sinnett, is highly spoken of; and
Mr. Murphy, the chief person here, who is a Roman Catholic, was
particularly attentive to us, as he is to every clergyman of the
Church who visits the place. Mr. Joseph Saunders, the Society's
catechist, a worthy man, with moderate qualifications, reads on
Sunday, and has a Sunday-school.
We re-embarked at one o'clock, and were soon off Kiels or
Keels, six miles. The Archdeacon and Mr. Bullock had some
difficulty in explaining the nature of confirmation, and preparing
the people for it, with suitable impression, for there has been no
school here; very few can read; and the consequent ignorance is
alike perceptible and deplorable. Nothing could be more strongly
marked than the effects of this ignorance were, even in the
countenances of the people. About one-third are Roman Catholics,
the remainder belong to the Church. Here, as at King's Cove, we
had given previous notice of our visit, and the boats were stopped,
so that most of the inhabitants were assembled. The church (St.
Philip's) and the burial-ground were consecrated. The building is
substantial, and very sufficient for the place. Its erection was
chiefly owing to the exertions of Mr. Hobbs, of this place, now an
aged man, and so deaf, that it was impossible to converse with him,
beyond a commendation of his zeal and liberality. His father and
grandfather died here. Thirty-seven persons were confirmed, and
many children were baptized. Mr. Joseph Mesh, the reader here, is
very insufficiently /79/ qualified, but is the best the place
affords. Mr. Wills, a trader from Conception Bay, just commencing
an establishment, promised to open a Sunday-school
immediately.
We returned to the ship at six in the evening, and proceeded
to Salvage, thirteen miles, but finding no anchorage, we gave
notice for early service the next morning, and stood off for the
night. Many islands in this neighbourhood enrich the
scenery.
Tuesday, June 26th. We landed at Salvage before six o'clock,
and found the people still on the fish stages, where they had
passed the night in curing the immense quantities they had caught
on the preceding day. A large congregation was assembled, of whom
forty-nine were confirmed. Boats filled with people continued to
arrive as long as we remained, and as all of them brought children
for baptism, we were inconveniently delayed, especially as the ship
was in rather a critical situation. When, as we supposed, all was
finished, and we had put off from the shore on our return, another
boat arrived, and we were obliged to land again, upon the entreaty
of a mother with many tears, that we would not leave her infant
unbaptized, as she knew not when any other opportunity for its
baptism might be afforded. The Society's schoolmaster here, Mr.
James Sheldon, has been very useful. He has a daily school except
in full fishing season, and a Sunday-school throughout the year,
attended by more than fifty scholars, whose proficiency is very
creditable to him. He also reads on Sunday; and the contrast
between this place and Keels, only a few miles distant, marks the
value of his services. The church here is well built, but will not
be finished till the winter. I had much conversation with most of
the people after the service, and urged them to adorn their
profession in all things. Every inhabitant but one, as I was
informed, is a member of the Church. Soon after we reached the
ship, she was enveloped in fog, and being now in a dangerous
navigation, surrounded by many rocks and icebergs, we were obliged
to give up the prospect of landing, until the weather should
clear.
Wednesday, June 27th. Our situation during the night, /80/ in
consequence of fog, icebergs, and rocks, required every possible
precaution; and even so we hardly escaped, for in trying to avoid
one danger, we were immediately exposed to another. So much ice
was about us, that the mercury fell nearly to the freezing point.
In the morning, a momentary diminution of the fog enabled Mr.
Bullock, who is intimately acquainted with the coast, to ascertain
our situation, and by a great press of sail, we were enabled to get
to Greenspond about noon, when the fog became more dense than
before. Had we been a few days earlier, we should have found this
place completely closed against us by floating ice. Immense
quantities were still here, and a large iceberg was grounded in the
harbour. The principal gentleman of the place came on board. The
Archdeacon and Mr. Bullock landed, assembled the people for evening
service, and prepared as many as they could for confirmation. We
were not expected here, in consequence of the shore being so
obstructed by ice, and therefore they had much to engage them. The
weather was unfavourable, and they remained on shore, but I slept
in the ship.
Thursday, June 28th. I landed soon after six, and found a
large congregation waiting for me. St. Stephen's church, a very
respectable building, was consecrated, but the burial-ground was
not sufficiently inclosed; seventy-six persons were confirmed. In
the midst of the ceremony, I waited for the baptism of a woman, who
was afterwards confirmed: she and all around her were deeply
affected. The Newfoundland Society have promised teachers to this
place, and a school and dwelling-house for their reception are in
progress. But the people are unfortunately distracted by
contentions, which check every good undertaking. There are many
respectable persons here, much trade, and a large congregation,
chiefly attached to the Church; and it may be hoped, that by the
blessing of God upon the faithful labours of a discreet and pious
clergyman, whenever such can be sent, much good will be effected.
I encouraged the expectation of a clergyman, and of a schoolmaster,
if the Newfoundland Society should be unable to assist them; and I
earnestly /81/ exhorted them to co-operate in putting down all
contention, and to mutual forgiveness, and Christian love.
We had proposed to remain here some hours, but a favourable
breeze tempted us away, and placed us in the midst of icebergs, as
soon as we were well out of the harbour. Our progress did not
exceed thirty-five miles during the day, in the course of which it
was supposed that we saw not less than 1000, as more than 300 were
in sight at the same moment. Some were more than half a mile in
length, and more than 500 feet above the water, seven-eighths of
their bulk generally, and sometimes nine-tenths, being under water.
They assume every possible shape, and there is great variety in the
view of any one of them, from different points. Some are like
castles; some like cathedrals; some like mosques; some like farm-yards, with all their appropriate buildings; some have cataracts
falling from them; some have arches so immense that a ship under
full sail might pass through them. A very large one was broken by
shot from our guns. Several thousand tons of ice were dislodged
from one side, like an avalanche, when the whole mass rolled, until
nearly the same quantity fell from the opposite side, with a motion
as slow and stately as the launch of a first-rate ship, and with
noise like thunder; after which the centre, as if relieved of too
heavy a burthen, rose majestically to a greater height than at
first. Even the largest of these astonishing masses are evidently
fragments; some of them have large rocks on the top, which have
stuck in them when they have been aground, and are so firmly fixed
that they remain, after the mass has rolled over, and that part
which was the bottom of it thus becomes the top.
This day we witnessed another very curious scene. An immense
whale attacked by several threshers, a fish from sixteen to
eighteen feet in length, who spring from the water, and fall with
such violence on the back of the whale, that his flesh is beaten to
a jelly, while the sword-fish pierces him beneath, and keeps him on
the surface of the water. The contest generally ends with the
death of one of the parties: and after the death, they are
sometimes taken by the /82/ fishermen, who find them floating on
the water, or thrown upon the shore. But I must return from these
digressions.
Friday, June 29th. A fine day, with light wind, which brought
us nearly to the island of Fogo. The number of icebergs was so
sensibly diminished, that we hoped for a clear sea at night, but
upon counting them, 114 were seen from the deck.
Saturday, June 30th. The night was fine, and the ship was
under topsails only, as there was a very rocky and dangerous
passage a-head, which could not be attempted till the morning.
Through this we passed safely, and anchored at Toulinquet before
noon. The missionary, Mr. Chapman, came on board, with his
principal churchwarden, Mr. Pearce; and after completing
arrangements for a preparatory service in the evening, and for the
duties of the following day, we landed, and visited the church and
parsonage, which are large, but ill built, and unhappily encumbered
with a debt of 1500 pounds, which never will be paid. As the
parsonage at Bonavista, and several other churches in Newfoundland
are in the same situation, it may be proper to explain the cause.
Some years ago, when the fisheries were most productive, and money
consequently abundant, the merchants, who are the chief managers
here, undertook the buildings, upon a subscription made by the
numerous individuals who dealt with them, each of whom was debited
in the merchants' books with the sum he had agreed to subscribe.
When the fisheries failed, as they did very rapidly, and money was
no longer abundant, the planters and fishermen increased their
debts to the merchant for indispensable supplies, and the
subscriptions still stand to their debit. The buildings, hastily
erected, soon shew symptoms of decay, and the subscribers, if they
could command the money they promised, would rather expend it on
new and more substantial edifices; for it is manifest that the old
buildings are often not worth half of the money that is due for
them -- and they are apt to think that the advantages of the former
state of things were chiefly secured by the merchants. In this way
the 1500 pounds due from the church and parsonage at Toulinquet,
/83/ is due chiefly to three mercantile houses, and I could not
have consecrated the church, if these houses had not kindly and
properly consented to secure the property to the Church, and signed
the petition for the consecration.
We found at least half of the inhabitants here confined with
measles, and those who have escaped are afraid to venture from
their homes, lest they should take the infection. The fishery
here, as in several other places, had begun the day before our
arrival, the commencement of the fishery being always determined by
the arrival of the bait, which, upon its first appearance, engages
every individual, lest a single day of the short and uncertain
season should be lost. There is no schoolmaster at this place, but
great occasion for one. The Missionary teaches a Sunday-school,
which has sometimes been attended by 100 scholars. The mercury was
at 58 degrees this day outside of the harbour, but upon coming
within, it rose to 71 degrees in the short space of ten minutes.
In the evening the Archdeacon and Mr. Bullock collected a small
congregation, and assisted Mr. Chapman in preparing for
confirmation.
Sunday, July 1st. We had a better congregation in the morning
than we expected. St. Peter's Church and burial-ground were
consecrated, and the Archdeacon preached a very interesting sermon,
but many of the people seem uncouth and wild, with little devotion
and much apathy. The congregation, as is usual in Newfoundland,
was larger in the afternoon, and I endeavoured to rouse them.
Ninety-three were confirmed, some of whom shewed good feeling, but
the church was so noisy, and so much interrupted by running in and
out during the service, that after the close of it I collected the
principal persons, and spoke so much and so seriously on these
points, that with much apparent sincerity they promised their best
endeavours for improvement, and I have reason to hope that their
engagement has been fulfilled. Here, as at Greenspond, there is
much jarring; and some very wild religious opinions have been
introduced. Mr. Chapman seems earnestly desirous to promote their
best interests, and discharge all his duties faithfully.
/84/ The ship had sailed, to save time, as Captain Jones
intended to get round the island of Toulinquet, and pick me up on
the opposite side. The vessel however was becalmed, in consequence
of which I had a long row before I got on board; after which a
light breeze enabled her to proceed towards Exploits, Burnt Island.
Mr. Chapman accompanied us, and I greatly regretted that we were
unable to visit Morton's Harbour, where he occasionally
officiates.
Monday, July 2d. A current during the night had taken us out
of our course, but before ten o'clock we entered Exploits Bay,
which forms the mouth of a noble river of the same name. We landed
on Burnt Island, where there is a fishing settlement and a church,
but as no clergyman had been here for some time, we left Mr.
Chapman on shore to prepare the people for confirmation, and
returned to the ship with Mr. Peyton, the principal magistrate of
the place, and a very intelligent person, who was formerly in the
Navy Pay Office, but came to this place because his father required
his assistance. We had hardly reached the ship when a violent gale
of wind arose, in which several boats and some lives were lost upon
the coast. The wind however was fair, and we ran very rapidly for
twenty-five miles up this magnificent river, with the topsails on
the caps, when we anchored in a very safe harbour.
Tuesday, 3d. This was the first day since I left Halifax that
was devoted to personal gratification. The weather was fine, but
as hot as I have ever felt it. While the ship was being provided
with wood, we went in the boats about thirteen miles up the river
to a rapid, where we landed, and walked about two miles to a
splendid waterfall. The land is good, finely wooded with large
timber, and the scenery is rich and picturesque. Mr. Peyton, who
was with us, has twelve fishing stations for salmon along thirty
miles of the river, and the abundance of seal, deer, wild fowl, and
game of every description is surprising. But our interest in all
we saw was greatly increased by knowing that this was the retreat
of the Beothick, or red, or wild Indians, until the last four or
five years. We were on several of their stations and saw many /85/
of their traces. These stations were admirably chosen on points of
land, where they were concealed by the forest, but had long views
up and down the river, to guard against surprise. When Cabot first
landed, he took away three of this unhappy tribe, and from that day
to the present they have had reason to lament the discovery of
their island by Europeans. Not the least advancement has been made
towards their civilization. They are still clothed in skins, if
any remnant of their race be left, and bows and arrows are their
only weapons. English and French, and Mic-Macs and mountaineers,
and Labradors and Esquimaux shoot at the Beothick as they shoot at
the deer. The several attempts that have been made under the
sanction of Government to promote an intercourse with this race
have been most unfortunate, though some of them had every prospect
of success. An institution has been formed in the present year to
renew these praiseworthy attempts, the expenses of which must be
borne by benevolent individuals; and while I am writing, Mr.
Cormack, the enterprising individual who was named in page 65 of
this report, is engaged in a search for the remnant of the race;
but as it is known that they were reduced to the greatest distress
by being driven from the shores and rivers, where alone they could
procure sufficient food, and none have been seen for several years,
it is feared by some that a young woman who was brought in about
four years ago, and is now living in Mr. Peyton's family, is the
only survivor of her tribe. The Beothick Institution have now
assumed the charge of this interesting female, that she may be well
instructed and provided for. Mr. Cormack has only taken with him
one Mic-Mac, one mountaineer, and one Canadian Indian, and they are
provided with shields to protect them from arrows, that they may
not be compelled to fire. If any remain, they are hidden in the
most retired covers of the forest, which is chiefly confined to the
margins of lakes and the banks of rivers. Mr. Cormack and his
three companions are provided with various hieroglyphics and
emblems of peace, and hope to discover the objects of their pursuit
by looking from the tops of hills for their /86/ smoke, which may
sometimes be seen at the distance of eight or ten miles in the dawn
of a calm frosty morning. Who can fail to wish complete success to
so charitable an attempt? We returned to our ship in the evening
greatly delighted with every thing we had seen, but much exhausted
with excessive heat; several of the party also suffered from the
mosquitoes, which were innumerable.
Wednesday, July 4th. The weather continued fine, and we had
a rapid sail down the river at an early hour in the morning, making
only one stop at a beautiful fishing station on Sandy Point, from
whence the Beothick a few years ago stole a vessel and several
hundred pounds worth of property from Mr. Peyton. Between nine and
ten we landed at Burnt Island, and while the clergy were engaged in
assembling the people for service, I had some conversation with
Shanawdithit, the Beothick young woman I have already mentioned.
The history of her introduction to Mr. Peyton's family is soon
related. In April, 1823, a party of furriers in the neighbourhood
of the Exploits River followed the traces of some Red Indians,
until they came to a wigwam or hut, from whence an Indian had just
gone, and near it they found an old woman, so infirm that she could
not escape. They took her to Mr. Peyton's, where she was kindly
treated, and laden with presents. After a few days she was left at
her wigwam, while the furriers searched for others. Two females
were soon discovered, whose dress was but little different from
that of the men. Though much alarmed, they were made to understand
by signs that the old woman, who was their mother, was at hand.
The man who had been first seen was their father, who was drowned
by falling through the ice. The women were in such lamentable want
of food that they were easily induced to go to Mr. Peyton's. He
took them to St. John's, where every thing they could desire was
given to them, and after a stay of ten days they were taken back to
Exploits, and returned to their wigwam, in full confidence that an
amicable intercourse with their tribe would be established. One of
the young women, who had suffered some time from a /87/ pulmonary
complaint, died as soon as she was landed. In a short time the
other two returned to one of Mr. Peyton's stations nearly famished,
and very soon after they arrived there the old woman also died, and
Mr. Peyton has retained her daughter, Shanawdithit, in his family
ever since. She is fond of his children, who leave their mother to
go to her, and soon learned all that was necessary to make her
useful in the family. Her progress in the English language has
been slow, and I greatly lamented to find that she had not received
sufficient instruction to be baptized and confirmed. I should have
brought her to Halifax for this purpose, but her presence will be
of infinite importance if any more of her tribe should be
discovered. She is now twenty-three years old, very interesting,
rather graceful, and of a good disposition; her countenance mild,
and her voice soft and harmonious. Sometimes a little sullenness
appears, and an anxiety to wander, when she will pass twenty-four
hours in the woods, and return; but this seldom occurs. She is
fearful that her race has died from want of food. Mr. Peyton has
learnt from her that the traditions of the Beothick represent their
descent from the Labrador Indians, but the language of one is
wholly unintelligible to the other. All that could be discovered
of their religion is, that they feared some powerful monster, who
was to appear from the sea, and punish the wicked. They consider
death as a long sleep, and it is customary to bury the implements
and ornaments of the dead in the same grave with their former
possessors. They believe in incantations. When the girl who died
was very ill, her mother, who was of a violent and savage
disposition, heated large stones, and then poured water upon them
until she was encircled by the fumes, from the midst of which she
uttered horrid shrieks, expecting benefit to her suffering
child.
Mr. Chapman had been diligent in visiting and instructing the
people during our short absence in the upper part of the river. A
congregation was assembled at eleven o'clock, and forty-nine
persons were confirmed. All of these were /88/ very decorous in
their whole behaviour, and many of them appeared sincerely devout.
Shanawdithit was present. She perfectly understood that we were
engaged in religious services, and seemed struck with their
solemnity. Her whole deportment was serious and becoming. She was
also made to understand my regret that her previous instruction had
not been such as to allow of her baptism and confirmation, and my
hope and expectation that she would be well prepared if it should
please God that we met again. Mr. Peyton pledged himself that
every possible endeavour should be made for this purpose.
The church at Exploits, Burnt Island, is ill-constructed, and
most inconveniently situated; the people therefore, at my
suggestion, engaged to take it down, and reconstruct it in a fitter
place and in a better manner. There is very great occasion for a
school in this place, and as Mr. William Mosdell, a competent
person of good character, was willing to undertake the office, I
recommended his immediately taking the charge, and promised to
request for him an allowance of 15 pounds a-year from the Society,
to commence from July 1, 1827. He will also teach a Sunday School
and read to the people. A Dissenter who had been accustomed to
read, willingly resigned the employment, as he thought Mr. Mosdell
was well qualified; and being much pleased with the doctrines and
services of the Church, after due examination, he gladly united
himself with her.
This place may be considered as our northern frontier of
Newfoundland, being not far distant from Cape John, where the
French fishing establishments begin. From this place therefore we
turned towards St. John's, and in the evening were off the Island
of Fogo, forty miles distant from Exploits. As there was not a
sufficient harbour for the Orestes at the chief settlement, we left
the ship, and she proceeded to Shoal Bay, an open roadstead, while
we landed to give notice and prepare the people. Messrs. Bullock
and Chapman remained on shore for this purpose, while the
Archdeacon returned with me to the ship, distant from us four /89/
miles; the wind blowing so hard that we were in much danger. It
was agreed that we should land so early as to have service at four
o'clock on the following morning.
Thursday, July 5. After a very tempestuous night, which was
fatal to several boats and their crews on the coast, I was called
at two in the morning, but the lieutenant of the watch reported the
wind so violent and the sea so rough, that a boat could not go to
the shore with safety. I was therefore prevented from landing
until eight, when it was not effected without difficulty. I found
that the people assembled at four, when the clergy detained them at
service till seven. Despairing of seeing me, as the ship was so
far from them, they then dispersed, and the lulling of the storm
which enabled me to land, enabled the men to go to their fishing
stations, while the women repaired to their labour at the fish
stages. The latter, however, and a few of the former were
recalled. St. Andrew's Church, a very sufficient building, and
burial-ground were consecrated, and forty persons were confirmed.
The principal people assured me of their desire to promote all the
benevolent designs of the Society to the utmost of their power.
Churchwardens were appointed, and engagements made for forming a
committee of the Society for Promoting Christian Knowledge. I was
pleased with all I saw, and heartily commended the people to the
blessing of God. Mr. James Bell, who teaches a Sunday School, and
reads on that day, has superior qualifications for those offices,
and is a most respectable and exemplary person; but a daily school
is greatly wanted, and so remote is this island from the clergy,
and so difficult of access, that a Missionary ought to be stationed
here. We left Mr. Chapman at this island, having passed it on our
way to Exploits, and deferred our visit till on our return, on
purpose to have him with us. He was very attentive, and is most
anxious to be useful. At twelve we embarked, and having a
delightful breeze, we made rapid progress, and passed the
peculiarly dangerous navigation around Cape Freels before the night
closed upon us, and in the midst of icebergs, as before.
Friday, July 6th. The sea was very rough during the /90/
night, and the Archdeacon was very unwell. He was put into a
fishing-boat early this morning, and landed at Bird Island Cove,
five miles from Bonavista, soon after daylight, but not without
difficulty, as the sea was still rough, and the fog thick, and our
ship narrowly escaped a dangerous reef of rocks in effecting it.
His services had been so valuable, and his assistance and society
so useful and agreeable, that I could not part from him without
regret. At noon we were near Trinity, and landed Mr. Bullock, for
whose attentions I was much indebted. Being robust and active, he
had gone through extraordinary labour, and with great earnestness
and delight. Here I received a letter from Admiral Lake,
acquainting me that it would be necessary that the Orestes should
remain on the Newfoundland station, for which she was peculiarly
adapted, and that he had directed Captain Canning in his Majesty's
ship Alligator to come from the Gulf of St. Lawrence to St. John's,
and take me from thence to the Bay of Chaleur, and from that to any
other places I might wish to visit on my way to Halifax. We
proceeded on our voyage.
Saturday, July 7th. Although much delayed by head winds and
rough sea, we arrived in the evening of this day in the harbour of
St. John's. Sir Thomas Cochrane had not returned, but had left
directions for my occupation of his house and establishment; but,
having several places to visit before I should quit the Orestes, I
preferred remaining in the ship.
Sunday, July 8th. The weather fine, but very warm. I
preached in the morning to a large congregation at St. John's
Church, and afterwards consecrated the burial-ground. In the
afternoon I confirmed sixty-four persons, whom I addressed. Their
whole deportment was most becoming. In the evening I returned to
the ship.
Monday, July 9th. After many visits from the shore, and the
completion of arrangements with Mr. Laugharne for attending to
Torbay and Petty Harbour, which are difficult of access, I landed
with Mr. Carrington, and devoted most of the morning to an
examination of Mr. Bacon's /91/ school, which is assisted by the
Society, but chiefly supported by Government, and quite free. Mr.
Bacon is a superior master, and his pupils did him great credit.
He has 140 names on his books; his average attendance is 110; but
this day, owing to the prevalence of measles and fever, he had only
70. His school is well attended on Sunday. Arrangements were now
made for his going to Halifax, for full instruction in the national
system. The girls' school, taught by Miss Rennell, a very
respectable person, varies from 80 to 100. It requires some
superintendence, and to be opened on Sundays; for which purposes I
engaged the assistance of the principal ladies of St. John's.
Tuesday, July 10th. I set out in a boat for Torbay (nine
miles) at six in the morning, where Mr. Laugharne and his
congregation were ready for me at nine. St. Nicholas church and
its burial-ground were consecrated. Fifty-two persons were
confirmed; and I have seldom addressed a more attentive
congregation than I found in this humble settlement, with which it
was impossible not to be gratified. About half the population are
members of the Church of Rome, who chiefly reside on one side of
the harbour, and the other is occupied chiefly by the Protestants,
a circumstance not unusual in this island. Mr. Laugharne was
prevailed upon to return with us in the boat, but as we were on the
ocean, and the sea was rough, he suffered exceedingly, and was
seriously ill. We took shelter, during a shower, in a very
magnificent cave, into whose entrance the Orestes might have
sailed, as it was not much less than 200 feet in height. The water
was deep, but most beautifully transparent. This day's engagement
kept me nearly eight hours in the boat. The reader at this place,
a poor fisherman, is warmly recommended by Mr. Laugharne, for a
small allowance from the Society. A school is very desirable here.
In the evening I received letters from Halifax, informing me of the
death of a very affectionate and beloved sister, Mrs.
Pidgeon.
Wednesday, 11th. I remained on board the Orestes, and wrote
to the Society's Secretary on several important points.
Thursday, 12th. The weather was so unpromising that /92/
Captain Jones did not think it safe for a boat to venture upon the
open sea until after nine o'clock, when it became more moderate,
and we set out for Petty Harbour, ten miles; but our passage was
rough and uncomfortable, and so impeded by a heavy swell, that we
did not arrive till after one o'clock. Most of the Protestants had
remained at home to receive me, and the few boats that had gone to
their fishing ground returned as soon as we were seen approaching
the harbour. This is one of the neatest fishing villages in
Newfoundland. The Romanists are all on one side of the harbour,
and the Protestants, who are all members of the Church, on the
other. Like Torbay, it has communication with St. John's by land;
but the path is only fit for foot-passengers. Mr. Laugharne was
here to receive me, and I was again attended by Colonel Dunscomb,
who had been with me at Torbay, and presented handsome flags to the
churches at both places. Flags are used throughout Newfoundland,
to give notice of service, and every church has its flag-staff.
The flag is hoisted to the top at an early hour, lowered half-mast
half an hour before service, and entirely when the service
commences. St. David's church and burial-ground were consecrated,
and seventy-eight persons were confirmed. The church is a very
neat building, and the congregation attentive and interesting; so
that I had great satisfaction in addressing them. The reader at
this place, Mr. Allan, is a man of respectable character. The
Newfoundland Society's School is remarkably well taught by Mr. and
Mrs. Martin, who are valuable acquisitions to this settlement. She
was confirmed, and both are constant at church and sacrament. The
school contains thirty-three girls and twenty-three boys. The
attendance on Sunday is larger, and then Mr. Allan assists; but the
Roman Catholics seem unwilling to send their children at any time.
This place has never had a respectable school before; and the value
of Mr. Martin is sensibly felt. Mr. Laugharne had much reason to
be gratified with the evident good feeling of his people, both here
and at Torbay. We did not return to our ship until after eight
o'clock.
/93/ Friday, July 13th. We sailed in the Orestes for
Ferryland, forty miles, at a very early hour; but being baffled
with light winds, we made but slow progress. An opportunity was
afforded us for examining a natural curiosity on the shore, which
is rarely visited, although it is a mark which guides all vessels
on this part of the coast. It is called the Water-spout. It is
formed by a small natural shaft, from the surface of the ground to
a cave beneath. The sea is forced into the cave, and with such
violence as to throw the water or vapour through the shaft, many
feet into the air; sometimes to a great height, when the wind is
violent and the sea rough. We approached it in a boat, and had a
fine view of the cave; but the surf was so great, that Captain
Jones was hurt in landing, and no one else attempted it. The
aperture above is not twelve inches in diameter, but the rush of
the vapour is violent, and the noise of the sea in the cave
tremendous. In the evening a thick fog compelled us to stand out
to sea, under easy sail, for the night.
Saturday, 14th. We found ourselves to windward of Ferryland;
and passing it soon after daylight, we anchored in Capelin Bay,
which is very near it, and forms a safe harbour. Mr. Blackman, the
Society's Missionary, came on board, and attended me to the shore,
where the principal persons were soon introduced to me. The church
is merely a shell; but measures were taken for its completion, as
the old church has been allowed to decay, until scarcely a vestige
remains. The scenery is interesting, and there is much pasture and
meadow in the neighbourhood. More than a century ago, Lord
Baltimore, heir to the Grantee of the province of Avalon, which
includes Ferryland, passed a winter here, on his way to Maryland,
and lived in a cellar, whose ruins remain, because he fancied he
could not be warm above the surface of the ground. In this
neighbourhood is the Isle of Bays, which is said to be the only
cultivated spot in Newfoundland that has never been in the hands of
the French. It once withstood an arduous siege, and repelled its
assailants.
The religious zeal of this place requires to be roused; but
/94/ there are many respectable inhabitants here, from whom much
may be expected. There is great need of a school, as it does not
appear that any of respectability has ever been attempted. A large
portion of the inhabitants are Roman Catholics, and have a resident
priest. Nearly thirty years ago, more than 50 pounds a-year were
contributed by the people to assist the comfortable support of the
Society's Missionary; and I urged this fact, to provoke similar
exertion and liberality now.
This place was once the rendezvous of East India ships that
wanted convoy; and in the last war 200 sail, from all the ports in
these colonies, have been assembled at one time for the same
object. The place was once visited by Lord Nelson.
Sunday, July 15th. By the assistance of a carpenter's crew,
and flags from the Orestes, the church was made very comfortable
for temporary use, and received a larger congregation than could
have been elsewhere accommodated. I preached a preparatory sermon
for confirmation, and afterwards consecrated two burial-grounds.
In the afternoon I confirmed thirty-six persons, and earnestly
endeavoured to animate the people to an increase of zeal and
devotion. The ship was out of the harbour when the service was
finished. I joined her in a boat that was sent for me, and we
proceeded on our return to St. John's. There are several
settlements in the neighbourhood of Ferryland, to which the
occasional visits of a missionary would be very useful. Between
this place and St. John's is the Bay of Bulls, a populous place,
where almost all the inhabitants, some years ago, were Protestants.
The church was burned by Admiral Rickery in the late war, and the
mission was abandoned. I was informed, that in a time of more than
ordinary sickness the services of a clergyman were particularly
desired; but as no clergyman of the Church could be found to attend
to the people, a very serious impression was made by a diligent
priest of the Romish Church. His labours were soon followed by a
visit from the Roman Catholic Bishop, and the people have ever
since adhered to that communion.
/95/ Monday, July 16th. The night was foggy, but the sea
smooth, and we glided along under easy sail. Early in the morning,
there was a little opening of the fog for a few minutes, which
enabled us to enter the harbour of St. John's. Having now received
all the assistance which the Orestes could afford me, I took up my
abode at Mr. Dunscomb's, to await the arrival of the Alligator. I
could not take leave of Captain Jones, without expressing my
warmest thanks for his unbounded attention. He considered all my
objects as parts of his own duty; and by unwearied endeavours,
aided by a fleet vessel, enabled me to accomplish, in little more
than six weeks, what, under the circumstances, might have occupied
a summer. The ship had sailed with me nearly three thousand miles,
and, at times, through difficult and dangerous navigation.
The Alligator had met with some disasters in the river St.
Laurence, which led me to apprehend she would be delayed; and as I
was under engagement to have an ordination at Halifax, in
September, and Sir Thomas Cochrane was very desirous that I should
visit Placentia Bay, I was obliged reluctantly to change my
arrangements, and postpone my visit to the Bay of Chaleurs. I had
sent for Mr. Bullock to attend me to Placentia, and he arrived at
St. John's on Thursday, the 19th of July.
Sunday 22d. I preached to a large congregation at St. John's
in the morning, and in the afternoon rode to Portugal Cove, in
Conception Bay (ten miles), where I again preached to very
attentive hearers, and afterwards confirmed sixty-eight persons.
A woman, whose residence was at Carboneer, was prevented from being
confirmed there, as she had been called away to attend a dying
father. Having relations at Petty Harbour, which is nearly fifty
miles from Carboneer, she resolved upon going thither for
confirmation; but owing to the unfavourable winds, she was a day
too late. She then came to St. John's, and followed me to Portugal
Cove, where she was now confirmed, with deep seriousness and
devotion. The church here is the joint property of /96/ Churchmen
and Methodists, and therefore could not be consecrated. Here, as
in all places where a school has been established for any time, the
good effect was prominent; and, as many can read, there were many
prayer-books in use during the service.
The remainder of my time, while I was waiting for the arrival
of the Alligator, was chiefly occupied in such intercourse at St.
John's as was best calculated to extend my acquaintance with the
island.
Friday, July 27th. Sir Thomas Cochrane returned from his
visits to the Southern bays, where he had been greatly interrupted
and delayed by constant fog. His Excellency's return greatly
increased my means for obtaining useful information.
Sunday, 29th. I preached both morning and afternoon to
crowded congregations at St. John's.
Monday, 30th. The Alligator forced her way through a very
thick fog, in which we had been enveloped for many days, and
anchored in the harbour without being seen by any one.
Friday, August 3d. This being the first day of favourable
weather for sailing, I parted from the Governor and many kind and
attentive friends, with mutual regret; embarked on board the
Alligator, with the Rev. Mr. Bullock, under salutes, and we were
soon out of the harbour, but made little progress.
Saturday, 4th. The weather was such as to prevent our landing
at any place where our services could be useful.
Sunday, 5th. We sailed up St. Mary's Bay, and passed the
village of St. Mary's in the afternoon. Mr. Bullock landed,
assembled the few Protestants in the place, and officiated; after
which he followed the ship to her anchorage, three miles. In a
population of 500, only sixteen Protestants were to be found here,
and these had not been visited by any clergyman for twenty-seven
years. I was informed that not more than five persons here can
write their names; and their whole moral condition was represented
/97/ to me as deplorable. The children are chiefly taken to St.
John's for baptism. The priest from Ferryland makes an annual
visit.
Monday, August 6th. We had intended to remain here this day,
in which case I promised to land at St. Mary's; but as Placentia
was our chief object, and the weather was very uncertain, Captain
Canning thought it desirable to improve a little fair wind at
daylight, when the anchor was accordingly weighed. We did not get
out of St. Mary's bay until the evening, when a strong breeze
enabled us to pass Point Lance, and sail under the fine cliffs, and
along the rocky shore of Cape St. Mary. As the night came on, the
gale increased, the moon was obscured, and a thick fog was
gathering. We were now in the dangerous Bay of Placentia, and
without a pilot. We could not get out to sea, against a violent
wind, and to remain in the bay was very perilous. Under these
circumstances Captain Canning determined upon attempting the
harbour of Placentia, taking in all sail, and using every
precaution. Owing to the imperfection of the charts, the ship
struck upon the rocky bar of Cape Verd, a little before midnight,
and as it was impossible to force her over it, we remained striking
violently for five hours. The ship lost the whole of her false
keel, and a part of the main keel, which floated alongside; but as
she is a remarkably strong vessel, and was in some measure
protected from the violence of the sea by Cape Verd, she sustained
no other material damage, though she struck so hard with every sea,
that we were glad to support ourselves by taking firm hold of the
beams. She happily floated at high water, a little before five
o'clock, and soon afterwards was anchored in the outer harbour of
Placentia. In less than two hours the wind shifted only a few
points, when the sea broke so violently on the bar where the ship
had grounded, that she must have gone to pieces had she not
providentially floated before the change of wind. Every thing was
done in the ship with great coolness and skill, which prevented any
confusion, though the storm was violent, and the rain fell in
torrents. Two convicts on board were greatly alarmed, and /98/
earnestly begged to have their irons loosed: but their guard very
coolly replied, he would knock them off in good time, when he
should perceive the ship going to pieces.
Tuesday, August 7th. The weather improved towards noon,
though the wind was still high. We rowed two miles to Old
Placentia, once the seat of government, both French and English.
I had no hope of collecting a congregation, and landed rather to
gratify my curiosity, and to visit the ruins of ancient
fortifications. I was, however, met upon the shore by several
persons, who informed me my visit had been anxiously expected by a
few members of the Church, who were desirous of confirmation. I
was happy to gratify their wishes, although, in a population now
reduced nearly to 500, there are not many more than thirty
Protestants at the present time. Notice for service was soon
circulated, for the first time in twenty-one years. We assembled
at the church, which appears to have been particularly neat, but is
now so much in ruin that Sir Thomas Cochrane, in his late visit,
considered its repair impossible. I procured the best carpenters
in the place, had it thoroughly examined, and ascertained that it
might be repaired effectually for less than 100 pounds. The people
were rejoiced; readily promised their contributions; and the work
is likely to be speedily accomplished. Several Roman Catholics
will contribute, as all have a local attachment which makes them
desirous to preserve every thing in the place from further decay.
One Roman Catholic gentleman promised to contribute as large a sum
as any Protestant would subscribe, which will oblige him to pay 10
pounds. I found, in excellent order, a very beautiful service of
plate, which was presented to this church about the year 1787 or
1788, by His Royal Highness the Lord High Admiral, when he was at
Placentia, where His Royal Highness's beneficence is remembered
with gratitude and respect. The church books are also splendid.
These were the gift of a respectable merchant, the late Mr.
Saunders. Several attempts had been made for the removal of the
books and plate to St. John's, but the people were greatly
gratified upon receiving my assurance that I would not be /99/
instrumental to such an act. The Roman Catholics joined in
resistance to the measure, when it was attempted. Mr. Bullock made
as much preparation as the time would permit, and divine service
commenced at four o'clock in the afternoon. Ten persons, whose
manner was particularly devout, were confirmed, and I endeavoured
to address them in a manner adapted to their peculiar condition.
The beginning of the first lesson, Jeremiah xlii, was remarkably
applicable to this small remnant of the Church, and afforded
topics for my address to them. Six persons were very desirous of
receiving the Lord's Supper, and I could not hesitate in
administering it to their comfort and my own. If the employments
of this day have had a shade cast upon them by sincere regret for
the destitute condition of the Church in this place, which once had
a respectable congregation, they have also awakened an encouraging
hope that, by God's blessing, there may, at no distant period, be
a happy restoration.
Mr. Bullock was so unwell that I was obliged to leave him on
shore, as the water was still very rough, and I did not reach the
ship for dinner until nearly ten at night.
Wednesday, August 8th. As soon as Mr. Bullock could come to
me, with Mr. M'Gill, who kindly offered to conduct us, we set out
in a boat for Little Placentia, distant by water twelve miles,
where we were very kindly received by Mr. Tucker's family, who has
the chief management of the fishery and commerce here. Though
chiefly brought up among Dissenters in England, he expressed an
anxious wish to have a clergyman of the Church, whose services, he
is satisfied, might be a great blessing to this part of
Newfoundland. He was delighted to find his daughters desirous of
confirmation, and well prepared for it, and his wife anxious to
partake of the holy communion, for which no opportunity had ever
been afforded in this place until now. The population is about
500, who are, with few exceptions, of the Church of Rome; but in
the neighbouring harbours and islands there are between 100 and 200
persons who still retain their affection for the Church, besides
many others, who, having joined the Romish Communion, because all
hope of spiritual /100/ instruction in their own was lost, may not
be unwilling to return to their first principles. I preached as
plainly as I could to about fifty or sixty persons, chiefly Roman
Catholics, but owing to the impossibility of giving timely notice,
only three persons were ready for confirmation. The devotion of
these was highly exemplary. Mr. Tucker engaged to superintend a
Sunday-school, for all denominations, and to read on that day to
all who will attend him. Schools are greatly wanted at both
Placentias. Mr. Tucker's principals, the house of Neave and Penny
at Poole, are Quakers, but so strongly impressed with the necessity
for schools here, that they would probably contribute very
liberally to any attempt for their establishment. I left this
place with favourable impressions, and much hope that, with the
blessing of God, its prospects may brighten. Mr. Tucker is to
propose a subscription for the erection of a small church. We sent
away our own boat, as the sea had become rough, and were conveyed
by Mr. Tucker two miles up an arm of the sea, from whence a very
delightful walk of four miles brought us abreast of our ship, one
of whose boats was sent for us immediately. In walking along the
shore, we picked up many fragments of the Alligator's keel, which
could not be mistaken, as they were of teak wood.
Thursday, August 9th. The ship was delayed by headwind and
fog. I landed on Cape Verd, whose owner has been on it seventy
years, and holds a French grant for its title. Mr. Bullock
assembled a small but serious congregation at Old or Great
Placentia, and gave them service.
Friday, 10th. A thick fog. Mr. Bullock officiated again to
a larger congregation than met him yesterday. I remained on board
to write very particularly respecting the religious affairs of
Newfoundland, to Sir Thomas Cochrane.
Saturday, 11th. The fog broke away about nine, and the ship
was quickly under sail in hope of reaching Burin, or some harbour
on the western shore of the Bay, where our services might be useful
on Sunday, but the wind failed, and no effort could effect
this.
Sunday, 12th. Calm and fog, which prevented any progress
/101/ during the day. In the evening the fog was dispersed, and
with the help of sweeps, and boats towing the ship, she was
anchored, not without some risk of being again on shore, at Great
Burin, some time after dark. Mr. Bullock landed immediately to
make arrangements for early service on Monday, but discovered that
Little Burin would be the most desirable place to hold a
confirmation, of which it would be impossible to give sufficient
notice, unless it were delayed till Tuesday, which was accordingly
determined upon.
Monday, August 13th. A north-east gale, with violent rain,
made us very thankful to be in harbour. The weather improved in
the afternoon, when Mr. Bullock assembled about 100 persons, to
whom he fully explained the nature and obligations of confirmation.
He afterwards proceeded to Ship Cove, in Little Burin, for the same
purpose, but could not return at night.
Tuesday, 14th. A very squally day; but as I was unwilling to
disappoint those who expected me at Ship Cove, I set out in a boat
at eight o'clock, but was very nearly overset by a squall, before
I had proceeded a mile. About seventy persons were assembled in
the court-house, which was very convenient for service, and of
these, thirty-six were confirmed, after I had addressed them.
There is a Methodist teacher at this place, who very politely
offered me the use of his meeting-house, a building which was
originally erected on a very singular plan for a church and
parsonage; but being overwhelmed with debt it was sold for some
trifling sum, after the removal of Mr. Grantham, the Society's
Missionary here some years ago, and so passed into the hands of the
Methodists. A school is greatly wanted at each of the two Burins.
The principal inhabitants undertook to make some efforts among
themselves to assist in their establishment, and for the erection
of a church. The people here, when the success of the fishery was
most extraordinary, very preposterously engaged to the Society to
pay 300 pounds a year to a Missionary! When the Rev. Mr. Grantham
was sent hither, he brought the engagement with him, and when it
totally failed he left them in great /102/ disappointment. They
might as easily have paid 3000 pounds as 300 pounds, or rather both
sums were alike impossible. Soon after our return to the ship, Mr.
Bullock left us in a cutter which Sir Thomas Cochrane had very
kindly sent with us, to secure his comfortable return to St.
John's. His services had always been zealous and valuable, and
called for the sincere expression of my thanks.
Wednesday, August 15th. We got out of the harbour with great
difficulty, and sailed for Halifax. The winds were constantly
baffling, and the voyage was tedious, but without any circumstances
of much interest. We anchored one windy night under the Isle of
Little Miquelon, a French fishing station, but without settled
inhabitants; and another in Country Harbour on the coast of Nova
Scotia for protection from a storm. The French Islands St. Pierre
and Miquelon employ 500 sail of vessels in their fishery, and about
8000 men, most of whom come from France for the fishing season, and
return in the autumn. They are chiefly from Normandy, and Roman
Catholics.
Friday, August 24th. I landed safely at Halifax, with much
thankfulness to God, after an absence of three months, during
which, with constant fatigue and occasional peril, I had traversed
nearly 5000 miles. I had been enabled to preach thirty-two times,
to consecrate eighteen churches and twenty burial-grounds, and to
confirm 2365 persons at twenty-seven several confirmations, in the
discharge of which duties I had much comfort and encouragement, for
which I humbly desire to be duly thankful to the Author of every
mercy.
There are peculiar circumstances at Newfoundland, which
increase the difficulties of providing for the instruction of the
people. Their settlements are greatly scattered; always difficult
of access, and often inaccessible. During the short fishing season
every one is wholly engaged in the fishery, on which they depend
for support; and in the winter it is a frequent practice to remove
to the forest for shelter, fuel, and employment in preparing
lumber. These difficulties however may be successfully met by
becoming earnestness /103/ and zeal. Sometimes it will be
desirable for the schoolmasters to move with the people, and tilt
(as it is called) in the woods. The clergymen must also be ready,
with a pure missionary spirit, to visit occasionally these
temporary lodgements in the forest; and during the busiest seasons
they will always find the general inclination of the people leaning
towards the Church. Pressed as they often are by the hurry of the
fishing season, they will always be ready for instruction even
then, on the Sabbath, which is seldom violated by Protestants here.
But a personal intercourse must be kept up, through every
difficulty, between the clergy and all the members of their flocks,
or their influence will not be such as it ought to be. In the
course of my visits through the island, I met with a Roman Catholic
priest who was uncommonly popular, and had great influence through
an extensive circuit. Although he appeared to be a good humoured
person, I was rather surprised at the very great regard he had so
universally secured, until I ascertained that it was his habit to
pass a day and a night with every family of his flock, however poor
the accommodation they could afford him. A Missionary without
missionary zeal can do nothing here. He will often have formidable
difficulties to contend with; but if he be earnest in the great
cause in which he is embarked, he will not be left without much
comfort and encouragement in his arduous course. A large increase
of the clergy and schoolmasters is immediately required, and under
right direction, and with a blessing upon their labours, their
services cannot fail to be of the highest value. The means for
defraying the necessary expense, would not long be withheld by
those who have power to supply them, if they could witness the
great spiritual wants, and the worthiness of the objects which
require their benevolent regard and assistance. His Excellency the
Governor has promised his endeavours to provide for the conveyance
of a clergyman with the judges on their circuit, which will enable
him to visit several remote settlements, that would otherwise be
entirely beyond his reach. It will also be very desirable to
authorize the Archdeacon, in whose /104/ prudence unbounded
confidence may be placed, to provide for the actual expenses of
missionary visits to various places that are now entirely
neglected, as often as he can prevail with missionaries to make
these visits of Christian love. In all cases they must be
accomplished by water, and never without some difficulty and
personal risk.
I have only to commend the whole work to the great Shepherd of
the Christian Fold, and earnestly implore his blessing upon every
endeavour to promote the salvation of his numerous
flock.
(E-text furnished by Dr. Hans Rollmann; typed by Ms. Heather
Russell;htmlized by Dr. Hans Rollmann)