From the Garden

It's time to start thinking about starting some annual flowers for your garden. For containers you can use just about anything from cut-off milk cartons or plastic margarine dishes (punch holes in the bottom for drainage) to germination trays with clea r plastic covers or peat pellets (these are available at garden centres). Fill the containers with a sterilized potting mix and place in a basin of warm water. Once they are wet on the surface raise one end of the container so excess water will drain off. Tamp the mix down lightly with a piece of wood and you are ready to sow. Read your seed packet to find out about sowing dates, depth to sow, temperature needed to germinate, if light is needed for germination, and final spacing of plants. Make shallow fu rrows in the mix about one inch apart and space your seeds along them. About an inch apart works well for most seeds. Very small seeds are sprinkled on the surface and pressed down lightly to make sure they are in contact with the mix. Spray lightly with a hand mister. Most seeds like a warm place to germinate, and the top of the fridge is just about perfect. Cover with clear plastic so the mix doesn't dry out. Keep an eye on them and remove the plastic once they start to sprout. When they need water use a hand mister, not a watering can; you could knock over the seedlings.

Finding the best light
Now put the seedlings in the best lit place you can find (east-facing windows are ideal). Rotate the containers every day so the plants don't lean to the light. If you are using lights, move the containers around so each one gets a chance in the best spot . Once your seedlings have two sets of leaves (the first set are the seed leaves or cotyledons and the second set are the true or adult leaves) they are ready to transplant into larger containers. Prepare them as you did the seed containers. Use a pencil to make holes in the mix (spacing will depend on the type of plant). Carefully dig the seedling out with a popsicle stick or small spoon. Handle the seedlings by the leaves, not the stems, as you can easily bruise the soft stem tissue. This is not rocket science, so after the first few you will be able to do it with a minimum of root damage. Place the lifted seedling in one of the holes in your tray with the soil right up to the seed leaves (first set). Level out the surface after all the holes are filled and water by soaking or with a watering can with a fine head. Grow in a well-lit area. Before they are planted outside, they will need to be hardened off. When the weather warms up (mid to late May) put your trays outside for a few hours a day, gradually moving them into a sunnier place and leaving them out longer. Work up to placing them in full sun, leaving them out all day and moving them inside at night. Aro und the first week of June you can start leaving them out all night, but watch the forecast and move inside if frost or low temperatures are called for. On the magic date of June 15 you can finally get to the fun part creating your garden with your own h ome-grown beauties. Plant at the desired spacing and water with a weak solution of a water- soluble fertilizer.

Some easy annuals you can start yourself:

Cosmos - Early Sensation. This tall (3 ft.) variety is a mix of white, pink and rose and will provide good late-season color. Plant in a sunny, well drained area.

Rudbeckia - Gloriosa Daisy Mix. Another tall annual for the back of the bed. Large single daisy-like blooms in combinations of yellow, gold and bronze. Good as a cut flower.

Mesembryanthemum - Livingstone Daisy Mix. This ‘ice plant' has been a big hit at the garden over the past few years. Large (2-3 inch) blooms in a variety of colors on 6-inch plants make them great front-line plants for boxes or the perennial bor der.

Helianthus - Mammoth Russian. This sunflower is listed as a six-footer (we had one go to 11 feet this year) and is topped with a large (up to a foot across) yellow bloom. Plant in a sunny spot, stake and feed well throughout the growing season. Leave the seed heads on the plant and watch the blue jays eat the seeds.

Points to remember: Read the seed packet; what you need to know is usually there. Don't start your seeds too soon. I find you can add two weeks (at least) to the sowing dates listed. Most of the usual annuals should be started late April or early May. Don't overfeed the seedlings. If planted in good mix they will not need any fertilizer until you plant them in the garden. You want them to look good in the garden, and not almost finished by the time you plant them out.

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